Think about going to a tea stall on your favorite elaichi chai. Water is boiled, some tea-flavouring agent is added, and the concoction is served to you. You drink it as tea, however you aren’t informed that neither tea leaves nor milk or sugar have been added. What you drank wasn’t tea, it was a tea-flavoured drink.
That is precisely what Indians are discovering out on the subject of their favorite alcoholic drinks, because the Meals Security and Requirements Authority of India (FSSAI) enforces labelling norms on Indian-Made Overseas Liquor (IMFL), and a battle is being waged in Bombay Excessive Courtroom. Individuals are discovering out that their go-to whisky is not whisky, and their favorite rum was by no means a rum.
Many are feeling cheated as a result of the legendary Previous Monk, commemorated throughout generations, is struggling to name itself a rum. Its sale in Maharashtra has been halted, and it’s dealing with a Rs 1-crore loss in enterprise a day, in response to reviews. Different manufacturers have capitulated, and are getting their labels redesigned.
Previous Monk producer Mohan Rocky Springwater Breweries, an affiliate of Mohan Meakin, has additionally conformed, however the difficulty has now gone past labelling, with the FSSAI saying that it might’t be bought as rum.
We had been informed that almost all whiskies in India had been rum, however on this nation even rum is not rum. By the way in which, the notion that whiskies are rum is fake. So, sure, we’ve an elephant within the Madhushala to handle.
However the elephant is not new, it’s older than the Indian republic, as a result of that’s when the class of IMFL was created and the sale of whisky- and rum-identical alcoholic drinks began in India.
Mixologist and writer Shatbhi Basu says “the difficulty has been happening since endlessly”, and that is why Indian spirits weren’t recognised by the EU, UK and the US.
The problem has come to the fore as a result of legal guidelines are being amended, and there is stricter enforcement.
The world over, alcohol current in whisky, rum or brandy is generated through the brewing course of. Indian mass-market alcobev merchandise are usually additional impartial alcohol (ENA) or grain impartial spirit (GNS) by which flavouring and colouring brokers are added to current them as whisky and rum.
The truth is, India is the most important shopper of whisky on this planet. Paradoxically, the whisky is not whisky. The query is what’s the method going ahead? And there are two elements — shopper rights and billions of {dollars} of enterprise yearly.
We can even take a look on the nostalgia related to Previous Monk, the sensation of being cheated, and what loyalists say in regards to the rum-not-a-rum difficulty.
A non-statutory warning first. This Sunday Particular is longer than most articles you learn on our web site. However here’s a section-wise information, which can show you how to bounce some subsections in case you are quick on time.
Learn 1 to seek out out in regards to the FSSAI dispute and the rum query. Subheads 2 and three clarify why IMFL whisky is nearer to desi daaru than any Scotch, however nonetheless guidelines the thekas. You possibly can skip 4 in the event you do not need to learn in regards to the laws. In 6, we propose the way in which ahead. Learn subheads 5 and seven for certain, they seize the story’s “spirits”.
1. WHAT IS THE OLD MONK AND THE FSSAI DISPUTE?
In early August, the FSSAI barred the sale of certain variants of popular liquor brands, together with Previous Monk, Antiquity Blue Whisky, Royal Problem Whisky and Bagpiper Deluxe Whisky over the usage of synthetic flavours, in response to a Reuters report.
“There isn’t a internationally recognised manufacturing apply whereby rum flavour is added to rum or whisky flavour is added to whisky,” the regulator mentioned.
What the FSSAI was in impact saying was that the rum wasn’t a rum however a rum-flavoured alcoholic drink.
On September 3, the FSSAI informed the Bombay Excessive Courtroom that Previous Monk could not be bought as rum, reported Mint.
It mentioned the principle objection wasn’t the labelling of ‘7 years outdated blended’ and ‘very outdated vatted’ however the very nature of the product. “What just isn’t permitted is to promote this product as rum,” the FSSAI’s counsel mentioned, in response to Mint. The lawyer urged that it may, as a substitute, be described as a “rum-flavoured spirit”.
The case might be taken up by the excessive court docket on September 11. However the FSSAI’s assertion shocked generations of Indians.
“Wow! All alongside, Previous Monk hasn’t been a rum in any respect, however a ‘rum flavoured spirit’, primarily based not on sugarcane juice or by-products, however an affordable, impartial base spirit, caramel colouring and components to move it off as a darkish fragrant rum?,” wrote celebrated edutainer and content material creator Siddhartha Basu on X on September 4.
One has to know the feelings behind the frustration. Previous Monk is not simply another rum. There are posts and movies on social media that reveal the way it has been a part of folks’s journey, the nostalgia worth it carries, and its cult standing.
“It does really feel improper although, being cheated in regards to the one factor that you simply drank once you felt cheated,” Pleasure Bhattacharjya, writer and sports activities producer, wrote on X in August when the dispute over Previous Monk’s contents first emerged.
The story of Previous Monk is the story with most IMFL drinks, minus the legacy worth.
2. IS YOUR WHISKY NOTHING BUT DESI DAARU OR COUNTRY LIQUOR?
It would sound tipsy speak, however Indian whisky and rum are relatively nearer to desi daaru or nation liquor than what is taken into account whisky and rum worldwide. That is mainly due to how and from what they’re made.
Whisky is globally produced from grain, primarily barley (malt) and corn. Likewise, rum is produced from sugarcane juice, and brandy from grape juice. The alcohol is produced through the fermentation course of and distillation will increase its energy.
In India, apart from the premium single malts, most whiskies and rums are produced from impartial spirits (ENA or GNS), derived principally from molasses, and nowadays some grain. Molasses is a byproduct of the sugar-refining course of.
There’s a historic cause why alcohol at a mass scale in India was produced from molasses and never grain, like is finished in a lot of the world. “It was merely a business enterprise utilizing what was extra of our land — molasses. We wanted grain to feed our hundreds of thousands. So grain spirits had been by no means inspired,” explains mixologist Basu.
Impartial spirits are nothing however ethanol. Sure, chemically the same ethanol that the government is mixing with petrol.
“Rum just isn’t rum, however rum-flavored ethanol. Whiskey just isn’t whiskey, however whiskey-flavored ethanol. Life just isn’t a joke, however joke-flavored ethanol,” satirist and columnist Kamlesh Singh, the Tau of the favored Teen Tal podcast, wrote on X.
The impartial spirits are 96% alcohol by quantity (ABV) and demineralised water is added to scale back the alcohol content material to 42.8% ABV. Then, relying upon what’s desired, particular flavours and colors are added to transform the impartial spirits into whisky or rum. In some circumstances, some cane spirit is added for rum, and malt spirit for whisky.
The world over, whisky is made by fermenting grains, distilling the liquid, and ageing it in wood barrels. The place the barley grew, the way it was soaked, dried and fermented, what casks had been used to age the liquid decide the style and aroma of the whisky. It’s a craft of endurance. Tens of hundreds of thousands of casks are sitting within the US and Europe right now so that folks can get pleasure from aged whisky a number of years from now.
In India, the impartial spirits get became whisky on the blink of a watch. The ultimate product is at greatest an approximation. It’s due to the identical substances and multi-column distillation course of that Indian whiskies and rums are nearer to desi daaru than to plain whiskies and rums bought internationally.
“I feel everybody is aware of that we made our spirits primarily from molasses-neutral spirit after which added color and flavour of the spirit of alternative. Some whiskies had been blended with imported scotch malts, however we by no means knew the proportion as we did not have particular legal guidelines for it,” says mixologist Basu.
3. WHAT IS IMFL? WHAT ARE THE NEW WHISKIES FROM INDIA?
India accounts for almost half of the world’s whisky consumption. In 2023, India overtook France because the world’s biggest buyer of Scotch whisky by volume, in response to a BBC report.
Nonetheless, that will be a minuscule a part of the complete commerce. The most important phase of booze in India is bought below the phase of India Made Overseas Liquor (IMFL).
“The most important whisky phase in India by quantity is the favored or mass-market whisky class, usually priced between Rs 300 and Rs 900. This phase accounts for the overwhelming majority of whisky consumption within the nation,” says Bishan Kumar, Editor-in-Chief of Spiritz, India’s premier alcoholic beverage month-to-month.
“Whereas premium whiskies and Indian single malts have been rising at a formidable tempo, they nonetheless characterize a comparatively small share of complete volumes,” he provides.
Past the mass-market whiskies, a new segment of crafted whiskies is emerging from India. The Indian single malt, Indri, was in 2023 named the world’s greatest whisky. In addition to Indri, Amrut, Paul John and Radico Khaitan’s Rampur are among the many Indian manufacturers giving a troublesome struggle to world alcobev giants for shelf area in India.
“Our youthful entrepreneurs are doing an distinctive job placing India on the worldwide map with world-class spirits — single malts, gin, vodka, agave spirits, liqueurs, even Feni and Mahua,” says Basu.
Nonetheless, as Kumar mentioned, the phase varieties a small a part of the gross sales as its merchandise are positioned at a a lot larger worth level.
The IMFL phase was born as a result of folks in India needed one thing higher than nation liquor however could not afford the expensive imported booze. The business sensed a giant enterprise alternative, and drinks mimicking whisky and rum began being manufactured. Valued at $60 billion in 2025, India’s IMFL market is projected to exceed $101 billion by 2032, in response to Related Alcohols and Breweries Ltd.
4. ARE DISTILLERS IN INDIA VIOLATING LAWS?
Rajnish Singh from Dhvaen Legislation Observe, a lawyer and skilled shaping India’s alcobev business insurance policies, says there are two sides to the IMFL coin. “On one facet, the alcohol firms are legally compliant in what they’re doing. The opposite is of the suitable of the buyer to know and their belief within the model,” Singh tells India Immediately Digital.
The skilled says there are three units of laws for India’s alcobev business. The alcoholic drinks laws of 2018, the components regulation of 2011, and the labelling laws of 2020.
“Having finished conjoint studying of the related laws of FSSAI, the rum and whisky merchandise being bought in India are very a lot in compliance with the laws,” he says.
Kumar of Spiritz says the FSSAI would possibly have to revisit the laws, and that disruptions in enterprise additionally hit shoppers and the exchequer.
He, nonetheless, suggests standardisation of whisky, rum, gin and many others, being made in India, just like the Indian Malt Whisky Affiliation has finished by bringing all malt whisky makers on the identical web page.
5. WHAT OLD MONK LOYALISTS HAVE TO SAY ABOUT RUM CONTROVERSY
“We get it. ‘Previous Monk is not rum’. In a gentler world, they may have quietly handed this judgment in stealth mode relatively than kill a whole technology’s collective nostalgia,” posted Parminder Singh, CEO of Reliance Enterprises Intelligence, on X after the FSSAI’s submission within the Bombay Excessive Courtroom.
Although there may be the sensation of being cheated, will Previous Monkers surrender their favorite poison?
I known as up an Previous Monk loyalist, a journalist for over 20 years. Each time I noticed him with a glass on the Press Membership of India (PCI), he invariably had Previous Monk in it.
“The controversy about whether or not Previous Monk is definitely a rum does not matter to me. I’ve been ingesting Previous Monk for 20 years and can proceed ingesting,” the Delhi-based journalist tells me.
Does he really feel cheated now realizing that his rum wasn’t really a rum?
“No, I do not really feel cheated in any respect. I drink Previous Monk as a result of it’s Previous Monk, not as a result of it’s rum. I’ll proceed ingesting Previous Monk even when it is not branded rum,” he says.
To grasp alcohol preferences, I spoke to Jagdish Singh Rawat, who heads the bar operations at New Delhi’s PCI. Now, the bar at PCI have to be one of many largest watering holes within the Capital.
“IMFL consists of over 90% of all alcohol bought on the Press Membership bar. In relation to rum, Previous Monk is about 90% of all rum gross sales,” says Rawat.
Rawat, who has labored on the PCI bar for round 22 years, says the “craze” for Previous Monk has remained intact through the years. He believes its reputation will not get hit due to the rum debate.
The development is comparable in Mumbai, the place the sale of Previous Monk has been prohibited for now.
Gurukripa, a restaurant-bar in Mumbai’s Powai suburb, is a mixture of a dive bar and a household restaurant. Its clientele consists of scholars from IIT Bombay, IT staff, and households residing within the close by high-rises.
“Previous Monk has at all times been a favorite. From college students to company staff, folks from all backgrounds drink it. There may be nonetheless demand, however since there isn’t any provide, persons are principally going for beer,” a administration worker at Gurukripa informed India Immediately Digital over the cellphone.
Requested if the rum debate would hit the model, the staffer mentioned, “I do not assume folks care whether or not it is real rum or not. It’s bought as rum. I solely bought to know that it’s not actual rum once you requested me.”
Whereas folks have a tendency to guage others by the whisky they drink, within the case of Previous Monk, it simply passes off because the rum they’ve for outdated time’s sake and since there are “issues cash cannot purchase”.
6. WHAT IS THE WAY FORWARD FOR MASS-MARKET INDIAN WHISKY AND RUM?
The Press Membership is visited by journalists who’re among the many most conscious folks. I feel they know what’s what, and what goes into most IMFL. They’re nonetheless asking for his or her favorite IMFL drinks. So, I do not assume the controversy goes to vary the demand-supply equation,” says Rawat.
Then he says one thing that Mohan Meakin must hearken to rigorously. “For most individuals, Previous Monk is rum. No matter it’s product of, it’s rum.”
As a result of folks have put of their belief, it’s incumbent upon a model to inform shoppers actually what’s within the bottle.
The mass market whiskies and rums fill the massive hole between nation liquor and imported spirits, and in the event that they exist it’s as a result of the demand exists. Subsequently, the elephant within the Madhushala must be addressed, and a method ahead must be discovered.
“This present fracas could result in some good adjustments, however it should include information and in partnership with the business and consultants within the subject,” says Basu. “The federal government should create legal guidelines which are practical and present. Let the distillers take duty for his or her merchandise and label them inside the Indian framework. And be sincere in regards to the liquid within the bottle.”
In true sense, rum and whisky must be ready utilizing cane and malt spirit, respectively, and never be depending on flavours. That may, nonetheless, find yourself making the ultimate product costlier and past the focused worth level, in response to consultants.
Manufacturers must come clear and make shoppers conscious that what they’re having is rum-identical, and never actual rum. However what in regards to the class and labelling?
In 2018, an identical downside cropped up with brandy. Whereas brandy is basically produced from grapes, in India it was being made with impartial spirits and flavouring brokers.
The FSSAI understood that including even some quantity of grape spirit would create a pricing downside for the distilleries, so, it allowed the creation of a brand new class — Indian Brandy. Equally, Indian Rum or Indian Whisky might be a method out.
“Taking priority of the definition of Indian Brandy outlined below FSSAI guidelines, the meals regulator can think about amending its current laws and introducing sub-categories like Indian Rum or Indian Whisky or comparable nomenclature, which ought to successfully painting the true nature of the product being consumed by any shopper,” suggests Singh.
7. OLD MONK, EMPTY BOTTLES AND MEMORIES
Like hundreds of thousands of individuals, I had Previous Monk within the days that I keep in mind due to the wrestle. Later, I loved my Previous Monk and Coke on winter evenings after I may afford higher however felt rum was all I wanted. Whereas I switched whisky manufacturers as I matured, the rum was principally about Previous Monk.
I’ve used pyaar and PR with house owners of alcohol vends to pay money for Previous Monk bottles after they had been in brief provide in winters. An Previous Monk was a should amongst my bottles of Indian whiskies, single malts and Scotch.
Then there was an annual ritual for years. Months forward of Christmas, I soaked raisins in Previous Monk for the Christmas plum cake that my spouse would bake. Rum-soaked raisins!!
Whereas I favored what was within the bottle, she used the empty bottles as planters. There are a number of of these bottles with and with out crops at my dwelling. The labels on them learn, ‘Matured XXX Choose Rum. Very Previous Vatted’.
– Ends
