Renowned Nepali mountaineer Mingma G on Tuesday vowed to attempt a dangerous ground recovery mission to retrieve the bodies of renowned climber Nirmal Purja, popularly known as “Nimsdai”, and two fellow climbers from Pakistan’s Broad Peak, amid worsening weather and fresh avalanches.
Mingma G, in a phone conversation with The Tourism Times, said he would attempt to retrieve the bodies of Purja, Chinese climber Wang Zhong and Nima Sherpa, which remain stranded at around 5,000 metres on the Concordia side of the mountain.
“I know the risks and challenges in the mountains, but I will try my best out of respect for my fellow legendary climbers,” Mingma G said, who is the first Nepali to climb all 14 peaks without using supplemental oxygen.
Mingma G also shared an emotional tribute on Instagram to Purja, Wang Zhong and Kili Pemba “Kilu” Sherpa, writing, “My loving brothers Kilu, Wang and Nims. We will take you back home to see families.”
The three are among the 10 climbers killed in last week’s massive avalanche on Broad Peak. While search teams have located eight bodies and recovered four, the remains of Purja, Wang Zhong and Nima Sherpa could not be brought below the 5,000-metre mark because of the treacherous terrain and deteriorating weather.
RESCUE TEAMS AWAIT WEATHER WINDOW
The recovery mission was hampered on Tuesday by poor weather that prevented helicopter operations in Pakistan’s Karakoram region. “There was another avalanche,” Mingma G told Everest Chronicle, adding that rescuers had to suspend their efforts to move the bodies all the way to Base Camp.
He added that a planned ground recovery mission was also deferred due to adverse weather and persistent rainfall, with the team waiting for conditions to improve before making another attempt.
“All others have already left and my team is the only one here,” Mingma G told The Tourism Times. Mingma G did not disclose the identities of the other team members. Pakistani climber Sirbaz Khan is also believed to still be on the mountain. Khan has frequently been part of Mingma G’s expeditions, serving both as a climber and rope-fixer.
According to the reports, Mingma G’s team recovered four bodies from around 5,700 metres on Sunday, while the bodies of Kili Pemba Sherpa and Gyalu Sherpa have since been moved to a safer, flatter section of the mountain.
However, the bodies of Purja, Wang Zhong and Nima Sherpa remain trapped on an avalanche-prone slope at around 5,000 metres, making recovery extremely hazardous.
Another climber, Nawang Thindhu Sherpa, remains in an inaccessible location above 6,000 metres, while Pakistani guide Sohail Sakhi is still missing.
Mingma G and Purja shared a close friendship and had climbed together on several major expeditions since making the historic first winter ascent of K2 in January 2021. They frequently partnered on commercial expeditions, with Wang Zhong also being a regular client of Mingma G’s Imagine Nepal team.
A massive avalanche struck just below Camp III during a summit push last week, killing 10 climbers in what has been described as one of the worst mountaineering disasters in the Karakoram region.
Mingma David Sherpa, co-owner of Elite Exped, said he had met the President of the Alpine Club of Pakistan to improve coordination among authorities, rescue teams and technical resources to ensure the recovery operation proceeds safely and efficiently.
The Alpine Club of Pakistan said helicopters would make another attempt to reach the area on Wednesday, which is the seventh day of rescue mission, subject to improved weather conditions.
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