It was a bitterly cold day in January (the complete opposite of the heat in which I am writing this) when I returned from skiing, exhausted, and opened social media, unaware that an event destined to go down in fashion history had taken place that day. John Galliano, fashion’s controversial darling, presented his final Artisanal collection for Maison Margiela, bidding farewell to his role as creative director in his signature theatrical style. Models made up like porcelain dolls walked the runway in voluminous yet structured creations, with every detail evoking the slightly dark John Galliano sensibility we have loved so much for decades. I think I spent hours scrolling through photographs from the show, zooming in on every slit in the sheer fabrics, every seemingly carelessly stitched detail on the jackets, and some of the best Tabi shoes I had ever seen. This is everything I want from fashion, I thought.
That moment of admiration for John Galliano’s creativity and craftsmanship was nothing new for me, as for years now, whenever I need “a little dose of beauty,” I have looked through archival photographs of his Dior shows, just to feel something. I am far from alone in this. Galliano is one of the most highly regarded designers, and his vintage creations appear almost constantly, with stars such as Bella Hadid and Zendaya never turning down a good Dior by Galliano slip dress (and who could blame them?). After a brief absence that was painful for fashion, Galliano announced his return this year with a rather unexpected collaboration with Zara. Opinions on this fashion decision are divided, and I honestly understand both sides, but allow me to be selfish for a moment and say that if this is the easiest way to add one of John Galliano’s enchanting creations to my wardrobe, then I truly am looking forward to the collaboration.
Maison Margiela Spring 2024 Couture, Gorunway.com
Given my fondness for the designer, I imagine it is clear how delighted I was to learn that the next exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute would be dedicated to John Galliano. Before him, only two designers had been honored with a Costume Institute exhibition during their lifetime: Yves Saint Laurent in 1983 and Rei Kawakubo in 2017. And because the museum exhibition is generally closely connected to the Met Gala theme (although they are not the same!), speculation began circulating on social media that Galliano himself would be next year’s theme. In conjunction with these exhibitions, the Met Gala theme in 1983 was Yves Saint Laurent: 25 Years of Design, followed by Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between in 2017 and Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty in 2023. In 1997, following the designer’s death, the Met Gala theme was Gianni Versace. The assumption that John Galliano’s artistry might be the next theme is therefore well founded (and incredibly exciting!).
Related: John Galliano Is the Subject of The Met’s Next Costume Institute Exhibition
From his brief but influential tenure at Givenchy, through his legendary Dior era, to his decade at Maison Margiela, John Galliano has created a wealth of intriguing looks that fit perfectly with the grandeur of the Met Gala. That is precisely why we have already seen many of his creations countless times at fashion’s biggest event, with one of the most notable examples undoubtedly being Princess Diana’s only appearance at the event, in 1996. However, even if John Galliano is the theme of the Met Gala, guests will not have to wear only his designs, but anything that suits his sensibility and the dress code. And while we eagerly await the event’s official announcement, I am highlighting some of John Galliano’s looks that I would love to see at the 2027 Met Gala.
